• The key differences between leather butts and shoulders, and how they’re sourced.
• Which leather cut is better suited for specific projects like belts, luggage, or leather goods.
• How to choose the right leather for durability, workability, and finish in your craft.

At J. Wood Leathers, we know that the success of a leather project often starts with one decision: choosing the right hide. While terms like “butt” and “shoulder” might sound interchangeable to the untrained ear, the differences between the two cuts can have a big impact on your work. From strength and stretch to grain consistency and tooling performance, understanding how each cut behaves can help you select the best material for your specific project.

Whether you’re crafting a timeless toolbelt, a traditional satchel, or any other high quality leathergoods, this guide will walk you through the pros and cons of butts vs shoulders, so you can work with confidence, and achieve results that last.

1. What is a leather Butt?

The leather butt is considered one of the highest-quality cuts of leather available. It’s taken from the hindquarters of the hide, where the fibres are densest and most uniform. This area sees less movement during the animal’s life, which means minimal stretching and a tight, consistent grain – ideal for projects that demand a large, clean useable area.

Why choose a leather butt?

• Exceptional strength: The fibres in the butt area are thick and tight, making this cut extremely hard-wearing.
• Minimal stretch: Because it’s less prone to warping or elongating over time, it’s perfect for precision items like belts, dog collars, and straps.
• Smooth surface: The consistent grain makes butts ideal for tooling, stamping, and embossing – they exceed detail beautifully.

Best uses for leather butts

• Heavy-duty toolbelts, dog collars and leads etc.
• Bushcraft items and knife sheaths
• Watch straps, belts, and other structured leather goods

While leather butts are typically more expensive than shoulders, their consistency and strength make them a smart investment for professional-grade craftsmanship.

2. What is a leather shoulder?

The leather shoulder is cut from the upper section of the hide, just behind the neck. It offers a more affordable alternative to the butt, while still delivering excellent workability for a wide range of leathercraft projects.

Unlike the dense grain of the butt, the shoulder has more natural variation in texture due to the animal’s movement, which can be a unique advantage depending on your personal design goals. This cut is slightly more flexible, making it easier to work with for certain shapes and techniques.

Why choose a leather shoulder?

• Cost-effective: Shoulders are generally more affordable than butts, making them ideal for learners, hobbyists, or large-scale production work.
• At J. Wood leathers, we offer different grades of shoulder from economy (link) to premium (link) with trimmed (link) and untrimmed available (link) to meet any skill level and requirement.
• Natural character: Expect a more varied grain with slight textural differences – such as growth, perfect for projects where a bit of rustic authenticity is desired.

Best uses for leather shoulders

• Bags, wallets, belts, straps and small accessories
• Bookbinding and other traditional crafts
• Decorative tooling and practice work
• Reenactment & cosplay items, such as leather armour, scabbards etc.

The leather shoulder is a reliable, versatile option that offers enough durability for everyday items while still allowing creative freedom. For makers who value function and flexibility, it’s a solid choice.

3. Leather Butt vs Shoulder: Key differences explained

The difference between leather butts and shoulders comes down to size, useable area, strength, grain quality, and how you plan to use them.

Leather shoulders, taken from the front of the hide, are slightly softer and more pliable. While not quite as dense as butts, they’re easier to shape and stitch which is ideal for wallets, journal covers, crossbody bags, pouches, and even lightweight belts. Their natural grain variations add character, especially to handmade or vintage-style goods.

If you’re making something that needs structure and long-term durability, the butt is the superior choice. For softer, more flexible pieces with unique texture, the shoulder offers both value and versatility.

Need help choosing the right leather?

At J. Wood Leathers, we supply premium leather butts and shoulders to makers of all levels – from seasoned craftspeople, to beginners starting their first project. If you’re unsure which cut is right for you, we’re always more than happy to help. Get in touch here to talk to a member of our expert team.