When it comes to purchasing leather, one of the most common questions we hear at J Wood Leathers is: How much do I need?

Whether you’re a professional leatherworker, a hobbyist or someone sourcing materials for a specific project, understanding how much is measured and sold is key to making the right choice.

Unlike fabric, leather doesn’t come in uniform, rectangular sheets – each hide is unique in shape and size, which can make estimating your needs a little tricky.

Understanding measurements

Unlike textiles sold by the metre or yard, leather is typically sold by the square foot. However, the amount of usable material within that measurement varies depending on the shape and type of the hide. Here’s a breakdown of some of the most common cuts:

• Whole Hides – the entire piece of leather from the animal.
• Butts – the rear portion of the hide — includes both rear halves of the hide, but only the back (butt) portion, excluding the shoulder and belly.
• Sides – one side of a full hide split down the backbone (so it’s half a hide).
• Shoulders – the area from the neck to the top of the legs.

Considering Thickness

Leather thickness plays a crucial role in determining its use for different projects.
Leather thickness is usually measured in millimetres (mm) or ounces (oz). At J. Wood Leathers we measure everything in mm.
Here’s a rough guide:

How is it measured?

Leather thickness is measured using a gauge or caliper, often in multiple spots, since natural hides vary. The measurement usually references a range to cover variation across the skin, rather than an exact number.
Understanding thickness before purchasing ensures you get the right material for your project, preventing costly mistakes.

Factors to consider when estimating leather needs

Since no two hides are identical, estimating your leather requirements is important. This process is part measuring, part planning, and part understanding the quirks of natural material. Here’s a breakdown of what you should consider:

1. Project Pattern or Dimensions

Know exactly what you’re making: bag, belt, sheath, wallet, etc.
Either:

• Have a pattern and calculate total surface area.
• Or measure the size of each piece you’ll cut and add them up (length × width for each).

Pro tip: Lay your pattern on butcher paper or cardboard first to visualize how it fits on a hide.

2. Leather Shape and Cut Type

Leather hides aren’t perfectly square — they come in natural shapes, and that affects usable area.

3. Waste Factor / Yield

• Always account for waste: edges, scars, brands, holes, stretchiness (especially in bellies).
• • Consider adding 10-20% extra to your calculated area to be safe.

For precise, tight-layout projects, you may get away with ~10%. For organic shapes or multiple small cuts, lean toward 25%+.

4. Grain Consistency & Aesthetics

If your piece needs visual consistency (like a smooth grain front panel on a bag), you’ll need to be pickier about placement and may need more leather than the bare measurements suggest.

5. Thickness (Weight) Requirements

Thicker leather means more structure — but it also might reduce yield if it’s harder to fold or layer.
Thinner leather might stretch or require reinforcement (lining, interfacing), which also affects your leather needs.

6. Backups or Prototypes

Are you making just one piece, or prototyping a few?
Add extra for mistakes, learning curves, and test cuts.

Choosing the right leather for your project

At J Wood Leathers, we stock a range of high-quality leathers suitable for all kinds of projects. We source our leather from reputable tanneries to ensure quality, consistency and ethical production practices for environmental impacts.

Get in touch

If you’re unsure on how much you need for your next project, don’t hesitate to get in touch with our friendly J Wood Leathers team. We’ll be happy to guide you through the selection process to ensure you get the best fit for your work. Contact us today.