Whether you’re crafting a handmade wallet, creating a bespoke handbag or producing heavy-duty saddlery, choosing the right leather is one of the most important decisions you’ll make. The leather you select will influence not only the appearance of your finished piece, but also its durability, flexibility and overall performance.
With so many different leather types, finishes and thicknesses available, it can be difficult to know where to start. In this guide, we’ll explain the key factors to consider when choosing leather for your project, helping you make an informed decision with confidence.
Start by choosing the right type of leather
The first step is understanding the different types of leather available. Each offers unique characteristics, making certain leathers better suited to specific applications.
Full-Grain Leather
Full-grain leather retains the natural grain surface of the hide, including any authentic markings and variations. It’s valued for its durability, natural appearance and ability to develop character and patina over time, making it a popular choice for premium leather goods and products.
Best suited for:
- Belts
- Luxury handbags
- Saddlery
- High-end leather accessories
Top-Grain & Corrected Grain Leather
Top-grain leather is made from the upper part of the hide and includes both full-grain and corrected-grain leathers. Corrected-grain leather has had part of its natural grain surface buffed or mechanically corrected to reduce visible imperfections, and it is often finished or embossed to create a smoother, more uniform appearance. It’s a popular choice for products where a refined appearance, cost, consistency and yield are all important.
Best suited for:
- Wallets
- Handbags
- Fashion accessories
- Small leather goods
Suede
Suede has been finished on the flesh side, or produced from a leather split, to create a soft, velvety nap. It is generally flexible and tactile, making it suitable for applications where softness, movement or a textured appearance is required.
Best suited for:
- Linings
- Garments & Clothing
- Pouches
- Soft accessories
- Craft projects
Chrome-Tanned Leather
Chrome-tanned leather is known for its softness, flexibility and extensive range of colours. It’s one of the most versatile leathers available, making it suitable for a wide variety of applications.
Ideal for:
- Bags
- Clothing
- Wallets
- Fashion accessories
At J. Wood Leathers, you’ll find a wide selection of chrome-tanned leathers in a range of colours, textures and finishes to suit every project.
Vegetable-Tanned Leather
Vegetable-tanned leather is produced using vegetable tanning agents and is available in a range of thicknesses and finishes. Natural, unfinished vegetable-tanned leather is particularly well suited to wet moulding, carving, stamping and tooling because it can absorb moisture and retain impressed detail. We stock dyed through and natural veg leathers in a variety of different cuts and grades including shoulders, butts and sides.
Ideal for:
- Belts
- Tooling
- Carving
- Structured leather goods
- Saddlery
Why leather thickness matters
Leather thickness has a significant impact on how the material performs. Even a small difference in thickness can affect flexibility, strength and the finished appearance of your project.
Generally speaking:
Under 2.0mm leather
Leathers under 2.0mm are generally more flexible, although their precise handle and performance will also depend on the animal species, part of the hide, tannage and finish. Depending on the particular article, they are commonly used for:
- Garments & Clothing
- Upholstery
- Lightweight leather goods
2–3mm leather
Leather between 2-3mm generally provides greater substance and structure while retaining some flexibility. Depending on the tannage and construction of the finished item, it can be used for:
- Unlined or minimalist wallets
• Small structured leather goods
• Bag panels and bases
• Medium-duty straps
Around 4mm leather
Leather around 4mm thick provides substantial weight and structure and is often selected for products requiring resistance to stretching and heavy use. Its suitability will also depend on the fibre structure, tannage and part of the hide from which it is cut. Ideal for:
- Belts
- Dog collars
- Heavy-duty strapping & accessories
- Industrial applications
Choosing the right leather finish
The finish of your leather has a huge influence on the final appearance of your project. Whether you’re aiming for a clean contemporary look or a distressed vintage finish, choosing the right surface is just as important as selecting the leather itself.
Smooth and polished leather
Offers a clean, refined appearance that’s ideal for modern accessories and fashion products.
Pull-Up Leather
Pull-up leather changes colour when stretched or bent, creating a rich, lived-in appearance full of character.
Perfect for:
- Bags
- Boots
- Everyday accessories
Nubuck and Suede
Nubuck and suede both have a soft, velvety nap, but they are produced differently. Nubuck is made by lightly buffing the grain surface of the leather, while suede is normally produced by finishing the flesh side or a leather split. Both add softness and texture, although their suitability will depend on the demands of the finished product. Commonly used for:
- Footwear
- Bags & accessories
- Garments
- Soft leather goods
Embossed Leather
Embossed leather has a pattern or texture pressed into its surface using engraved plates or rollers. Embossing can be used to reproduce crocodile, Ostrich and other exotic or decorative grain effects, making these leathers ideal for distinctive fashion pieces and accessories and much more affordable alternative to some of the more exotic genuine animal hides.
Oiled and Waxed Leather
Oils and waxes can improve water resistance and flexibility, giving the leather a durable, characterful appearance. Performance varies between individual articles, however, its important to note that oiled or waxed leather should not automatically be assumed to be waterproof. Waxed leathers, particularly pull-ups often have a lovely vintage, distressed aesthetic. Ideal for:
- Boots & Footwear
- Bags & Backpacks
- Belts
- Tool rolls & Knife sheaths
- Aprons
- Outdoor & equestrian accessories
Aniline Leather
Aniline leather is a much sought-after type of leather that is dyed using transparent dyes allowing the natural and unique characteristics of the hide to remain visible. It has no pigmented surface coating, although a light transparent protective finish may be applied. It can develop a beautiful patina over time, making it a popular choice for premium leather goods.
Choosing leather based on your project
One of the easiest ways to narrow down your options is to think about what you’re making. Every project has different requirements, so selecting a leather that suits its intended use will help achieve the best possible results.
For belts, dog collars and heavy-duty straps
We recommend:
- Buffalo Veg Tan Butts
- Whole Butt Splits
- Amanda Shoulders
Vegetable-tanned or firm chrome-tanned leather provides the strength and durability these products require.
For handbags
Popular choices include:
- Airedale
- Apache
- Montana
- Dyed Through Vegetable Tan
These leathers offer different levels of structure, flexibility and character. The most suitable option will depend on the design of the handbag, the required handle and whether the leather will be used for the main body, reinforcing panels, straps or decorative details.
For wallets and small leather goods
Our recommendations include:
- Apache
- Rio Waxy
- Galaxy
- Montana
- Natural Vegetable Tans (specify within 0.8-2.0mm ranges)
These options offer a range of handles, thicknesses and finishes suitable for different styles of small leather goods. The appropriate choice will depend on the construction of the item, particularly the number of layers involved and whether the leather will be skived or split to reduce bulk.
For garments
When flexibility and comfort are essential, consider:
- Nidderdale
- Metallic Leather
- Moto
- Kensington
- Country
- Suave Nappa
- Pateley Nubuck
- Ingleborough Suede
These leathers provide excellent drape while maintaining durability.
For pouches and soft accessories
Softer leather goods such as pouches, accessories and small bags often require leather that is flexible and easy to work with.
The best choice will depend on the finished product and whether you need more structure or a softer handle. Suitable options include:
- Ingleborough suede
- Lightweight Natural Vegetable Tans
- Montana
For tooling and carving
If you’re creating hand-tooled leatherwork, we recommend:
- Regular Grade Natural Veg Tan Sides
- Premium Grade Natural Veg Tan Shoulders
These leathers are specifically suited to traditional leathercraft techniques.
Choosing leather for the look you want
Sometimes your priority is achieving a particular style or finish. Different leathers naturally lend themselves to different aesthetics.
Rustic
For a rugged, natural appearance, consider:
- Nidderdale
- Buffalo Veg Tan Butts
- Rio Waxy
Luxury
For premium leather goods with a refined finish:
- Pateley Nubuck
- Montana
- Amanda shoulders
- Suave Nappa
- Cape Shoulders
- Charger Leather Upholstery Hides
Vintage
To create an aged or distressed appearance:
- Outlaw Distressed Nappa
- Rocky Leather Upholstery Hides
- Spider Leather Upholstery Hides
- Buffalo Veg Tan Butts
- Rio Waxy
These recommendations are intended as a starting point. Many different leathers can be successfully used across multiple applications depending on your design and preferred finish.
Find the perfect leather at J. Wood Leathers
Choosing the right leather can be daunting but doesn’t need to be complicated. By considering the leather type, thickness, finish and intended application, you’ll be able to select a hide that not only looks fantastic but also performs exactly as your project requires.
Whether you’re an experienced leatherworker, professional manufacturer or hobbyist maker, J. Wood Leathers stocks an extensive range of premium leather hides to suit every project.
Browse our collection online or get in touch with our knowledgeable team if you’d like advice on selecting the right leather for your next creation. We’re always happy to help.